I met Seth in Luang
Prabang, Laos. We teamed up to travel but he got food poisoning just as we were
set to join three backpackers going up river. While Seth recuperated we made our
way by fan tail boat, Lao Army truck, by foot, assorted civilian vehicles,
having many adventures, a few close calls, never knowing where we would stay
until we got there. After getting close to the Chinese border I flew back to
Vientiane on a large French bi-plane. It had a true double set of wings, a
roaring engine, and a large wood propeller. There were no seats inside. The Lao
sat on their baggage and puked into little plastic baggies minutes after the
plane took off from the dirt airstrip. I sat by the door, which was held shut by
a sliding bolt. We flew low, chopper altitude, the jungle quite visible beneath
us. Maybe that's why it reminded me of a CA.
As planned I met up with Seth in Hanoi at one of the Hotel Especen's. It might
have been Number 6. Nice looking on the outside but a concrete bunker for a
room. At least it was air conditioned. Seth was fine. A Red Cross doctor had
helped him out. We decided to visit Sapa. After a long, hot, crowded, slow
chugging train ride, where the Vietnamese, as is their custom, spat, coughed,
ate, periodically checked their ducks, chickens, what have you, we rolled into
Lao Cai and soon hailed two cowboys on bright and growling Kawasaki's. They
smiled, we jumped on, held tight, and off they sped to the police station,
taking the turns low and fast. We paid five bucks each to the cops, who
illegally extended our passports visas. Then returned to the train station and
caught a dollar bus to Sapa. The higher we went, the colder it got.
Photo Marc Levy)
I photographed these H'mong girls in a small market not frequented by tourists.
The marks on their foreheads may be from moxibustion or another form of
traditional medicine.
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